Use the high trail and the river bank pathways. The trail then widens considerably revealing a never-ending stretch of sand. On the West Bank of the river you can see Gompa Kang and some caves. Unlike most monasteries in Upper Mustang, Gompa Kang is of the Nyingmapa sect. Stop for a while at the village of Tangbe , which is situated alongside the east bank trail above the river, at an elevation of 9,600ft. Here are the first black, white and red chortens that typify Upper Mustang. The little town is a labyrinth of narrow alleys among whitewashed houses, fields of buck-wheat barley, wheat and apple orchards. Nilgiri Peak continues to dominate the southern skyline. Chussang village is only about 1½ - 2hrs walk beyond Tangbe at the confluence of the Narshang Khola and the Kali Gandaki. There are three separate parts to this village and some broken castle walls on the surrounding cliffs. Across the river from Chussang are some spectacular red organ-pipe eroded cliffs above the mouth of some inaccessible caves. The five villages of this area, Chele, Gyagar, Chussang, Tangbe and Tetang are a culturally unified group of people, closely related to the Manangis, rather than the true Lobas. Camp overnight here.

Continue north by climbing on the trail you reach a huge red chunk of conglomerate that has fallen from the cliffs above forming a tunnel through which the river flows. A steel bridge spans the river just in front of the tunnel and north of here the Kali Gandaki becomes impassable on foot, although locals sometimes travel this route on horseback, through a steep, narrow canyon. There are many caves here high on the fluted red cliffs above. The trek now leaves the valley and climbs steeply up a rocky gully to the village of Chele (9,940ft/3,030m) among extensive barley fields that blanket the hillside. Most of the houses now have sheep horns above their doorways and ghost traps. Climbing from Chele up a steep spur you come to a cairn at 10,270ft/3,130m. Here there is a view of the village of Gyagar across the huge canyon. The climb continues along the side of a spectacular steep canyon to a pass at 11,500ft/3,505m. From here it traverses on a pleasant trail to Samar situated in a grove of poplar trees. Camp overnight here.

Climb above Samar to a ridge and then descend into a large gorge past a chorten painted in red, black, yellow and white and then the trail goes into another valley filled with juniper trees. Then cross the stream and climb to a ridge at 12,500ft/3,810m. Cross another pass, follow a ridge and descend to Shyang Mochen a tiny settlement with a few teashops at 12,170ft/3,709m. The trail climbs gently from Shyang Mochen to a pass at 12,370ft/3,770m and enters another huge east-west valley. There is a trail junction here. The left trail is the direct route to the Nyi La by-passing Ghilling. Take the right fork and descend to Ghilling with its extensive fields of barley at 11,810ft/3,600m. As in all the settlements of Mustang, most houses are constructed out of mud and stones with roofs cast out of twigs, straw and a mixture of mud and pebbles, usually painted in bright white or ochre colors. Camp overnight here.

Set out for the capital of Mustang, Lo Manthang. Climb gently above the valley to a large isolated chorten that marks the boundary between Charang and Lo. The trail becomes a grand, wide thoroughfare and eventually you get your first view of the walled city of Lo Manthang from a ridge at 12,630ft/3,850m. Camp overnight here.

The terrain becomes less harsh as the route turns southwest towards the mountains. Horses and goats graze on grassy slopes leading to a col at 13,867ft/4,227m. A good trail leads to a lower col before descending steeply to the monastery of Lo Gekar. Camp overnight here.

Good views down the valley over Marang and Tsarang to distant peaks. After visiting the monastery you stroll on a fine high path contouring the hillside to a col at 13,284ft/4,049m with a panorama over barren hills, from a cairned summit on the left. A steep winding descent through red and purple cliffs leads to the white 'cubist' village of Tramar , surrounded by welcoming green pastures. Tramar has one of the most unique settings anywhere in Mustang. The highly-coloured cliffs rise sheer as a backdrop and again are peppered with caves. Continuing over arid slopes, the path swings high above Ghemi, set in a patchwork of red and yellow crops, before arriving at the two-house hamlet of Damagaon. Within 15 minutes from here you can walk to one of the ruined castles overlooking Ghiling. Camp overnight here.

A small path on leads to Syanboche, where you can take an indistinct path downwards. This gradually becomes a good trail leading down into a gigantic gorge, which narrows right down. At a junction and a stream the path turns right and a short way on it zigzags steeply up to a cave called Rangbyung. Inside are huge stalagmites, painted Buddhas, a few rough stone rooms and prayer flags strung across the entrance. Against the rear walls are small Buddhas that apparently magically re-grow if a piece is broken off. This is an important religious shrine. There now follows a long slow grueling climb out of the gorge to reach Samar . Camp overnight here.

Walk down to the southern border of the Mustang region at Kagbeni. This is by following the same route you took at the start of the trek. Camp overnight here.